Necktie machine



Oct. 12, 1948. NEWMAN 2,450,906

NECKTIE MACHINE Filed Dec.. 30, .1942- l 4 Sheets-Sheet l Fl(5.l

INVENTOR MAX NEWMAN M. M. NEWMAN NECK'I'IE 'MACHI-NE Oct. 12, 1948.

4 Sheets-Sheet 2 Filed Dec. 30, 1942 INVENTOR MAX' M. NEWMAN 'ATTORNEY M. M. NEWMAN NECKTIE MACHINE- Oct. 12, 1948.

Filed Dc. so, 1942 4 Sheets-Shet 4 INVENTOR N A W E m Mm T XA A W M/ Patented Oct. 12, 1948 meets NECKTIE MACHINE Max M. Newman, New York, N. Y., assignor to American Machine & Foundry Company, a corporation of New Jersey Application December 30, 1942 Serial No. 470,596

This invention relates tonecktie sewing machines, more particularly to improvements in the lining guiding mechanism thereof. One of the objects of the invention is to provide a lining guiding mechanism for the type of necktie whose fabric edges are stitched together While the folded fabric is inside out, and having what is commonly called a side seam, that is a stitch line which extends; inwardly from either end of the fabric in :a direction away from the overlapped fabric edges and toward the fold line, to a point at the neck band portion of the fabric. To this end, there is provided in the particular embodiment of the invention exemplified herein, a fabric guide which engages the fold line and is displaced transversely thereof in properly, timed relation to the feeding of the fabric to the stitch former to produce the desired side seamtype of stitch line extending longitudinallyof the overlapped fabric edges. 2

Another object of the invention is to produce thetype of stitch line required for the so called small knot tie wherein the stitch line has a narrow knot forming portion adjacent the neck band portionthereof. For this purpose the lining guiding mechanism is constructed so that its operation may be varied to produce a stitch line which is mainly parallel to the fabric edges except at the knot forming portion where it has a re-entrant .portion as required for a small knot.

- Still another object is to provide a sewing machine wherein either aside seam or small knot type of stitch line maybe obtained by varying the operation of the machine.

Withthese and other objects not specifically mentioned in view, the invention consists in certain constructions and combinations hereinafter fully described and then specifically set forth in the appended claims. 1

. In the accompanying drawings, which form a part of this specification and in which like char acters of referenceindicate the same or likeparts:

Fig. 1 is an end elevation of the improved machine; v Fig. 2 is a side elevation from the line 22 of Fig. 1;

Fig. 3 is a. development of the portion of the pattern band used for forming a stitch line of the side seam type,'the screws retaining the pieces of the pattern band being omitted;

Fig. 4 is a development of the complete pattern band;

' Fig. 5 is a side elevation of the same;

Fig. 6 is a plan View of a folded necktie fabric illustrating the stitch line produced by engage- 2 Claims. (01.112-136) Y 2 ment of the fabric guide with tie fabric;

Fig. 7 is a plan view of a necktie fabric illustrating the stitch line produced by en agement of the guide with the raw edges of the tie fabric;

Fig. 8is a section on line B8 of Fig. 6; and; I

Fig. 9 is a section on line .99 of Fig. '7.

The stitch-forming mechanism illustrated in this invention is of the same type and construction disclosed in the co-pending application of JJA. Neumair, Serial No. 441,464, filed May 2, 1942, .for Lining guide cam, on which Patent No. 2,372,224 was issued March 2'7, 1945. With the stitch-forming and feeding mechanism shown herein in which a folded tie fabric is engaged by suitable crimper bars Ill and I2, which are supported by endless sprocket chains and 96, the bars l0 and I2 are'suitably beveled as shown in said Neumair patent, to provide triangular teeth whose tips extend outwardly to the dotted lines H and I3 (Fig. 2). The bars I0 and I2 interengage with each other and advance and pleat the fabric upon aneedle 14 carrying a thread I6 extending along the needle and through the eye thereof into position to begrasped by the operator. In this manner the necktie fabric is stitched; and when it is 'desired'to withdraw it from the needle, the operator holds the projecting endof. the thread firmly to the tie fabric and reverses the direction of rotation of the machine, thereby backing the stitched fabric off the needle. Since the construction of the needle is the same as shown in said Neumair patent, further description thereof is deemed unnecessary.

Referring, to Fig. 1, in my construction there is provided a fabric guide l8 suitably located above table 20 upon which the necktie fabric is positioned preparatory to inserting its leading end between the bars l0 and I2. Guideldhas an upright flange 22 on its outer end arranged to engage and guide the superposed longitudinal edges of the tie fabric in predetermined relation to the point of the needle,;and is also provided with a horizontal .blade 24 adaptedto engage the interior the fold line of the I of. the fold, lin of the fabric and thereby maintain the fabric. in predetermined relation to the point of the needle. l r

Guide I8 is adjustably mounted in sleeve26 which is split at one end and carries a clamping collar 28 provided with a thumb screw '30- for clamping said split end'to guide I8. Sleeve 28 slides in a bearing 32, of frame I36and' is connected to arod 34 by means of a yoke 36 which has a notch at eachend wherein sleeve 26 and rod 34 are positioned and clamped by screws 38 and 40 respectively. The yoke 36 has an extension 4I whereon a latch 42 is pivoted by a cap screw 44. Fig. 1 shows latch 42 in two positions, the active position as shown in full lines and used when sewing a small knot tie, and the inactive position as shown in dotted lines. The rod 34 (Fig. 1) is slidably mounted in bearings 46 and 48 of frames 49 and I36, respectively, and is urged towards the left by means of an adjustable collar 50 fastened on rod 34 by a screw 52 and a compression spring 54 seated against bearing 48. A fork 56 is threaded on one end ofrod 34 against a counter nut 58 also threaded thereon. A pin 60 which is secured in the fork 56,- engages a finger 6| on a cam lever 62 which is disposed between the bifurcations of fork 56 and pivoted in a slot 63 formed-in the outer end of;

member 64 by a pin 66. A cam roller 68 mounted on a pin I secured in lever 62 engages the edge of a fabric pattern band hereinafter described. The member 64 is securedby a screw I2 to a stationary shaft '14, and it alsoiacts as a collar to retain a wheel 16 loosely mounted-on this shaft. To the spokes H of wheel 16 a-rin I8 is clamped by two bars 60 secured to'the spokes by screws 82. On the peripheryof ringc'la'are secured" a" number of 0am pieces, constituting a fabricxpattern band, as will be described: later.

Bosses 83'are f ormedon the spokes. of wheel 76, and-to these bosses a-gear 8'4 isfastened by screws 86, gear84=meshing with and being driven by a gear 88'f-astened by a screw 90 .to the end .of a shaft 92 which protrudes from frame 136: The inner end of shaft QZcarries a sprocket 04 which is driven by the sprocket chain 95 to which the above mentioned crimper bars I2" are secured. Sprocket chain 96' runs over .a sprocket 51 support-ed on astud in frame I36, and the crimper bars I3 are-secured to chain 96. Both sprocket chains 95. and '96' are driven by suitable mechanism (not shown).

Fig. 6 shows a tie fabric 98 with its longitudie nal edges folded upon each other. The heavy dotted line I00 indicates the line of-stitching often used in ties which have no lining; Starting close to the raw edges of thefabric. at apoint I02 nearthe leading end thereof, the stitch line extends inwardly, gradually: wideningthe :unstitched margin until a point. I104 in the neck band portionof the fabric is reached, whence the line of stitch extend-s outwardly to provide it gradually narrowing margin up -to a point I06 close to the raw edges where the stitch line ends. The blade 24 offiguidei Bis shown engaging the interior of'the fold line of the fabric, thereby serving to guide the fabric as it is fed upon the needle by the engagement of crimper bars Illrand I2; The-required movement of the guide I'8 as it guides the tie fabric to producethe line of stitch I02, 104, I06 is effected through thegprB- vi-ously mentioned fabric pattern band which consistsnoffive cam pieces I06, H0; :2, II4and I I6; These-pieces are fastened to ring.- 18 together with two additional cam pieces Ii26 andrl26; by cap" screws '8; washers I and nuts I22; the screws I'I:8ipassing through transverse elongated slots I24 of ring H3. The development of' these five-ream pieces is shown in Fig. 3 and in Fig; 4 with the pieces I26 and I28. Theycam pieces I26 and IZBare moved backwardly against the spokes, when the side seam stitch line-shown in Fig. 6 is desired, so that-their outer edges-lie inside of the outer edges of the pieces III] and H2; and the latchA-"Z is thrown to the inactive position indicated in "Fig. 1. The screwv I Econ;-

' cam piece H2.

necting the pieces I08 and '6 passes through coinciding circular holes I36 formed in the overlapping ends of these pieces. The overlapping ends of pieces I08 and H0 are provided with elongated longitudinal slots I31 and I38 respectively, through which the screw H 8 connecting them passes. ,At the overlapping ends of pieces H0 and H2, the screw H8 passes through a circular hole I39 formed in the piece II 0 and an elongated longitudinal slot I40 formed in the piece H2. The screw II8 connecting pieces II2 and -H4 passes through a circular hole I35a in piece H4 and an elongated slot I40a in the piece M2,, The screw II6-connecting pieces H4 and I I6 passes through an elongated longitudinal slot 'I3'1a in piece H4 and a similar slot I3'8a in piece I-I6.

When the type of stitch shown in Fig. 7 is requiredthe cam pieces I26 and I28 are slid outwardly into the position shown in Fig. 4, the nuts 122 on the screws 8' retaining the same being loosened 1 to permit this :movement of cam pieces l 26- an-d I26; One end of piece l26;is-provided with an elongated transverse slot I4-I t'hroughwhi-ch the correspondingscrew I I8.'passes,

the everlapped'end-s of pieces I26 and "I28 being provided with coinciding transverseelongated slots I42 throughwhich the screw I I6 connecting them passes, and thescrew II8 connecting piece I28 to piece II2 :passes through a circular hole in piece I26coinciding-with a-circular hole I43 inpiece H2.

In the operation of the machine to-produce the type of stitch line of Fig. 6; the machine is operated through areversing clutch (not shown) the needle I4 and'the stitch lineis begun. The

operator holds the fabric taut by its trailin end and maintains the interior of the fold line against the outer end'of the blade 24 as the guide I8-is displaced-toward the longitudinal edges ofthe fabric as the roller 58'successively rides over the edges of the cam pieces |08and IIO. 'I'hus'the stitch line is formed progressively-closer to the fold line until the point-1040f the fabric of 'Fig. 6 is reached, corresponding toithe point I I2aof From point 2a the roller 68 is displaced toward the fold lineof the fabric until the roller returns to its initial position 'at themideportion of cam piece I:I6.' Thus theblade 24 is sufliciently displaced towardithe foldline, so the line of stitching. gradually approaches :the fabric edges,i-from-.point'I04'topoint I06 of Fig; 6; The machine is then reversed tobackofi-the s'titchedfabric fronrthe needle.

The form of tie I30 as exemplified in Figrlds sometimes referred to as a small knot tie." The stitch line I32 is mainly parallel to the raw edges of'the fabric; but has a resentrant'portion I34 which provides anarrowswidth for azsmaill knot adjacent the neck band .of the finished tie. For this purpose the upright flange 220i guide-|8 is utilized, to guide the overlappedraw edges of-the folded tie fabric I 30, as shown in Fig. 7. To produce this line of stitching; the latch-.42 referred to previously is thrown into its a ctive pomm; shown inf-ull lines :in'Figal. The machine is then rotated to a point wherethe latch 42 comes to rest against the frame -I36. Now the guide It is adjusted so that the distance of the flange 22'fr0m the pointof the needle I4 corresponds with the distance A of Fig. 7, from the fabric edges to the parallel portions .of the stitch line, The re-entrant portion I 34 of the stitch line is effected by the cam pieces I26 and'I28 through the mechanism previously described.

, The latch, 42 maintainsthe roller 68 out of engagement with cam pieces I I6 and I68 as wheel I6 revolves in a counter-clockwise direction and thereby'prevents displacement of the guide I8 and causes the stitching to be formed in parallelismto the fabric edges along the leading end of the fabric, until the roller 68 engages cam piece I26. Then the fabric guide is displaced outward- 1y, as the roller 68 runs over the outwardly extending edge portion of the cam piece I2 6 on to the edge portion of cam piece I26 aligned with the adjoining edge portion of cam piece I28. In this manner the inwardly extending section of the reentrant portion of the stitch line is formed, the operator tautly holding the fabric edges against the flange 22. As the roller 68 rides over the aligned edge portions of cam pieces I26 and I28, the parallel section of the re-entrant portion of the stitch line is formed, since the fabric guide is maintained stationary. As the roller 68 follows the outwardly extending edge portion of cam piece I28 at the trailing end of the latter, the fabric guide is moved toward the fabric edges to produce the outwardly extending section of the re-entrant portion of the stitch, as the operator holds the fabric edges against the flange 22. Then the latch 42 reengages the frame I36, and the parallel portion of the stitch line along the trailing end of the fabric is formed.

To vary the bowing of the side seam type of stitch line shown in Fig. 6, the cam piece I68 may be swung outwardly about the screw I I8 connecting it to the piece II6, after unloosening this screw and the screw connecting pieces I08 and H6, and the pieces Ill] and 4 may be similarly adjusted, the piece II2 being moved outwardly transversely to the extent required.

It will be noted that the lining guides I46 and I59, which underlie the L-shaped slot I5I in the table 26 and serve to guide a lining inserted into said slot by engagement with its edges, do not assist in the stitching of the unlined types of ties described above. For this reason and the further reason that their construction and operation is described in the above mentioned Neumair patent, further description thereof is omitted herein. guides I46 and IE9 are supported by separate rods I44 and I5! which are slidably supported in frame I36, the rod I51 carrying a block I55 supporting a cam roller I53 which engages one edge of the cam pieces secured to the rim of wheel I6. The rod I44 carries a similar block (Fig. 2) provided with a cam roller engaging the other edge of said cam pieces. I

It should be understood, however, that some types of small knot ties may be provided with a lining, and in this case the lining guides will serve to maintain the lining in a predetermined position with respect to the stitch line. While I have described myinvention in its preferred forms, I desire it to be understood that modifications may be made and that no limitations upon the invention are-intended than are imposed by the scope of the appended claims.

What is claimed is:

However it may be noted that the lining 1. In' a sewing'machine for sewing together the overlapped longitudinal edges of a fabric; the.

to the operation of said mechanism for guiding the fabric to'form a stitch line of the side seam type, said means including a fabricguide arranged toengage the interior of the fold line of the fabric, and a pattern band, said pattern-band including a rotary'member revolving about a horizontal axis extending transversely of the fabric, a set of cam pieces secured on the periphcry of said member, and said means also includinga cam follower connected to said guide and engaging one edge of the cam pieces, and a device urging .said follower against said edge of the, cam pieces, said cam pieces having a predetermined configuration for displacing said guide transversely of the fabric to produce a side seam stitch line extending inwardly along the fabric edges in a direction toward the fold line from a point adjacent the leading end of the fabric to a point intermediate the fabric ends, and thence extending outwardly along the fabric edges in a direction toward the fabric edges from said point toward the trailing end of the fabric, said cam pieces including a stationary cam piece, a cam piece movable axially of said rotary member, a cam piece pivotally connected at one end to said stationary cam piece and movably connected to said axially movable cam piece, and a pair of cam pieces movab-ly connected to each other, one cam piece of said pair being pivotally connected to said stationary cam piece and the other cam piece of said pair being movably connected to said axially movable cam piece whereby said pivoted cam pieces may be swung outwardly on their pivotal connections and said movable cam pieces may be moved outwardly to permit various shapes of side seams to be obtained.

2. In a sewing machine for sewing together the longitudinal edges of a tie fabric which has been longitudinally folded along a curved fold line with its out. edges overlapped upon each other, the width of said folded fabric tapering from relatively wid end portions to a relatively narrow intermediate neck band portion, the combination with mechanism for feeding the folded fabric longitudinally and stitching its overlapped edges together, of a guide movable transversely of the folded fabric and arranged to engage the fold line of a folded fabric being fed by said mechanism, a rotary support revoluble about a horizontal axis extending transversely of the folded fabric being fed by said mechanism, a series of cam pieces having their ends overlapping one another and secured on the periphery of said rotary support, a cam follower mounted on said guide and arranged to engage one edge of said cam pieces as said pattern band is revolved, ielding means for maintaining said cam follower in engagement with said cam pieces, the edges of said cam pieces which engage said cam follower having a, predetermined configuration to cause said guide to be displaced transversely across the folded fabric while engaging the fold line of the fabric being fed by said mechanism and thereby permit said fabric to be displaced transversely to produce a stitch line of the side seam type wherein th stitch line extends inwardly and longitudinally along the overlapped fabric edges from the leading end of said fabric to a point within said neck band portion thereof and thence outwardly and longitudinally along the overlapped fabric edges toward the trailing end oi-saidfabric, said;cam pieces having a1igned perforations in theoverlapping. portions 'atthe ends'of' the cam pieces, ,andmembers extending through said perforations and releasably secured tosaid rotary supportto'retain the cam pieces onthe rotary support 1 whereby 'upon releasin said members from said rotary support said cam pieces may be adjusted axially of-said rotary support to permit variation of the displacementof said guidewhile engaging the fold line of a fabric beingiedby said mechanism and thereby vary the-shape of the stitch line formed along the overlapped edges of said fabric.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file -of this patent:

Number UNITED STATES PATENTS Name Date Moller June 4, 1901 Hanson June 4, 1907 Rosenman Aug. 26, 1913 Loomis Feb. 20, 1917 Hughes June 17, 1924 Schnurrbusch May 3, 1932 Hoeflich Nov. 15, 1932 Harrison et a1. MayBO, 1933 Carroll et a1.' June 9, 1936 Kratz Oct. 3, 1939 Naftali Oct, 3, 1939 Newman Mar. 10, 1942 

